A Rural Reset in Bath County, Virginia

on Jun 13, 2026

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By Candyce H. Stapen

River walks, lowing cows and mineral soaks in a centuries-old bathhouse anchored our restorative getaway in the Allegheny Mountains of Bath County, Virginia. My husband and I wanted a quiet nature retreat within a four-hour drive of the noisy politics and population of Washington, D.C. We chose Fort Lewis Lodge and Farm in Millboro. Situated in a mountain valley, the 3,300-acre cattle farm unfurls as a patchwork of grasslands and woods cut through by the Cowpasture River and partially bordered by the George Washington National Forest.

Virginia's Bath County, long known for its healing springs, has attracted "wellness" visitors for 250 years. In 1818, Thomas Jefferson, hoping to relieve his rheumatism, spent three weeks "taking the waters" in Warm Springs. He stayed five miles away in Hot Springs at the Bullitt Hotel, the forerunner of the Omni Homestead Resort. That 483-room luxury property, Bath County's most noted, features a waterpark, spa, multiple restaurants and two golf courses. Lovely as the prestigious resort is, we sought simple -- the other Bath County.

Instead of fairways, when we raised the shades in our Fort Lewis Lodge cottage, we saw bulls. The Black Angus beauties grazed in the fenced pasture near our room. As we admired them from our deck, they all ignored us except for the dominant male. He eyed us, then issued a guttural bellow before resuming his munching. The deep, throaty rattle, a sound we'd never heard before, amazed us.

Fort Lewis Lodge proved a relaxing nature getaway. With just 20 rooms in the main area, split between historic log cabins, a silo, a lodge and contemporary cottages, we enjoyed space and privacy to explore the forests and fields. We strolled woodsy paths; visited the pigs, goats and horses; and admired the cows. Playing disc golf took us along the river. Vacationers can also paddle kayaks, float on inner tubes, splash in the swimming hole, fly-fish on the river, and borrow bikes to pedal the back roads. Rates include ample breakfasts and dinners.

Not to miss is a soak in Bath County's historic Warm Spring Pools. The mineral-rich enclosures, rehabilitated by the Omni Homestead Resort, naturally heat to 98 F. Dating to 1761, the Gentlemen's Bathhouse is reputed to be the first spa structure in the United States.

We chose the 1875 Ladies' Bathhouse because light streams in from the oculus at the top. Seeing the clouds pass as we floated added to the sense of peace. Both bathhouses are coed except for the late-afternoon swimsuit-optional session. The apres-soak sense of ease stayed with us through dinner at The Tavern at the Inn, across the street from the pools, and into the next day.

At the Warm Springs Gallery and Cafe, another town gem, we perused an interesting collection of paintings, prints, glass vases and sculpture from local, national and international artists. We lunched on tasty salads and sandwiches at the facility's cafe.

In June and July, the hillsides at Moseymore Lavender Farm, Millboro, billow with purple blooms. In those months, the property hosts sessions on all things lavender --fashioning wreaths, understanding calming oils and creating botanical cards. At the gift shop, we browsed soaps and salves and purchased soothing lavender tea and natural lavender bug-off.

Another country comfort is Troddenvale, the cidery at Oakley Farm, Warm Springs. Made from the farm's more than 2,000 apple trees, the cider focuses on the fruit's natural flavor without added enhancements. Our flight of four drinks took us from bright to aromatic to bubbly. Light snacks include cheeses and a very tasty Tom Kha Kai Thai coconut vegetable soup. On summer Fridays, Troddenvale features food from local purveyors as well as music.

Fort Lewis Lodge and Farm takes its name from Fort Lewis, the stockade raised on the site in 1756 to defend settlers during the French and Indian War. The fort's exact footprint, however, has not yet been discovered.

Our spacious contemporary cottage, a haven for relaxation, featured a 14-foot arched ceiling, a fireplace, a live-edge wooden headboard and woven baskets. The room could have been featured in a modern country magazine. While perched on our deck, we sipped coffee, watched the bulls and caught the morning mist on the mountains. City stress seemed worlds away.

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WHEN YOU GO

Visit Bath Virginia: visitbathva.com

Fort Lewis Farm and Lodge is open April through early November and includes 20 rooms plus three rental houses a few miles away: fortlewislodge.com.

Omni Homestead Resort and Spa, which features Warm Spring Pools: omnihotels.com/hotels/homestead-virginia.com.

The Tavern at the Inn: theinnatwarmsprings.com/the-tavern

Moseymore Lavender Farm: moseymore.com

Warm Springs Gallery: warmspringsgallery.com

Troddenvale Cidery is open Thursday to Sunday: troddenvale.com.

Candyce H. Stapen, www.greatfamilyvacations.com, is an award-winning travel writer, editor, and author. Follow her on Instagram @CandyceStapen, X, and Facebook @Familyitrips. Discover www.HennysKids.org, Stapen's non-profit that brings educational materials to rural schools in Africa.

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